The protests in Israel against our government’s attempts to instigate judicial reform are growing by the week. What began as a few small demonstrations has blossomed into something no-one could imagine. The week before I returned home from Rome, there was an enormous rally outside Israel’s Parliament - the Knesset - and it was the first of what I think will be many.
I don’t travel to Jerusalem often, even though it’s just 45 minutes away by train and I have friends living there. At heart, I’m a true Tel Avivi and, besides, I’ve never really felt comfortable in the capital - it has a vibe that doesn’t resonate with me and, as years have passed, the city’s composition has become far more orthodox and right-wing, giving me just another excuse to stay away. But not now. I’m determined to attend the next rally.
Driving there is impossible (where would we park?) and no doubt the trains are going to be jammed (they were, last time) so me and my partner-in-crime, Alex Paz-Goldman, decide to hop a ride on a bus sponsored by one of Israel’s many high-tech companies (all making regular dire warnings about what this overhaul will do to the economy). We make a contribution and, along with 50 others, set off for the hills
Unbelievably, it’s a relatively fast journey and we’re dropped right at the heart of the action. The sight that awaits me is astonishing.
As far as the eye can see are blue and white flags, with the iconic Star of David symbol in their middle, held high by thousands and thousands of people who, like us, have travelled from out of town to make our voices heard. From the north and the south of the country, they’ve made long, exhausting journeys.
Many have taken a day’s leave from work. Many more have brought their children and quite a few women have tiny babies swaddled to their chests.
With blue skies and a fair amount of sun, the mood is upbeat…there are people handing out flags and stickers, there’s a speaker blasting out classic Israeli songs and within less than an hour of our arrival, the area is jam-packed. If you ever need proof of opposition to these far-reaching proposals, it’s here.
It’s heartening, I have to say, to know that I am not alone in my fear and fury. And what really impresses me is how many ‘older’ people are here. I’m no spring chicken but I see crowds of seventy and eight-somethings waving banners and flags, shouting ‘Democracia’ with angry yet determined looks upon their faces.
Many of them were instrumental in building this land. They’ve given their lives to the country and are now watching, with dismay and horror, as the most right-wing government in the history of the State of Israel tries to destroy their legacy. What will be left for their kids and their kids in turn, they are asking. It’s a damned good question.
Alex and I spent several hours outside our Parliament. I walk around, take photos, eavesdrop on conversations (always the sociologist, fascinated by what causes people to behave in the way that they do) and feeling proud. Because being able to protest freely is the cornerstone of any democracy and despite so many things that I think are wrong in my country, being able to take to the streets is still an option.
We clamber back onto a bus at just before 5pm. The sun has given way to dark clouds and there’s a distinct chill in the air. We are all exhausted but in good spirits, as we head back to Tel Aviv. But make no mistake about it - we understand that this is going to be a long struggle…and how it will end is anyone’s guess.
In the meantime, I’m now the proud owner of an enormous blue and white flag, which will come in handy for the ongoing protests in my own city.
This is no time to be fainthearted; this is the time to get out there and let our coalition know they’ve got a fight on their hands. It’s not going to be quick, and it’s not going to be easy, but no matter - we are not going away,
To be continued…
