I visited Chiang Mai over twenty five years ago so my memories are a little hazy. I remember, even then, that Thailand was already set up for tourism, decidedly commercialised compared to Indonesia and Malaysia.
In a big city like Bangkok, you don’t always notice how many tourists are around - particularly if you stay in a residential area like I did. But from the moment I start wandering the streets of Chiang Mai, especially in the Old City, I am taken at how ‘western’ it has become.
Even though I’d been told it was popular with digital nomads and expats, I had no idea of the real scale of it.
And whilst I spy exotic flowers everywhere, I also see signs I’d rather not (pointing me towards McDonalds and Decathlon!)
As well as the numerous guesthouses, restaurants and stores selling merchandise for tourists, everywhere I look I see cute little cafes, massage places (legitimate ones by the way, not knocking shops), British-themed barber shops (complete with tributes to the late Queen Elizabeth II), English bookshops and…cannabis dispensaries.
Yes. Not so long ago, Thailand legalised the selling and consumption of weed - and, as a result, dispensaries have been set up all over the country. And it’s good business - the locals are benefitting, visitors like myself are decidedly cheerful and the government is quids in, because of the tax revenues.
Thinking back to three decades ago, the penalty for being caught with illegal substances (even a joint) in Thailand was severe. I don’t know what you’d get for marijuana possession but something more hard core could even result in a stint in the Bangkok Hilton! (Read between the lines: your companions would be rats and big criminals, rather than rich Americans and European businessmen).
It’s quite an experience for me to wander into these places and be confronted by knowledgeable young Thais who can advise me on sativa, indica and hybrid strains and show me jars full of buds, with lovely little descriptions on the side ‘euphoric’, ‘calm and relaxed’ and ‘sleepy’.
At ‘Breeding’ (which I stumble upon randomly) I end up having a great chat with the two guys on the counter - one of them has a British father who supports my very own London football team It transpires that he gave his four kids very British names - Thomas, Charlie, Ronnie and Chelsea (Go Blues!).
He tells me that his father is a building contractor and since the economy in Chiang Mai hasn’t really recovered since Covid, they’re all leaving for the UK in the summer.
After I’ve bought a gram of ‘Dirty Bird’ and another of ‘Golden Poppy’ I give him my number and tell him to call me when he arrives in Putney (where his grandmother lives) if he ever feels lonely.
I feel no need to engage in tourist activities, such as visiting an (ethical?) Elephant Sanctuary or partake in a cookery class. I check myself into a great little place which is family-run, with comfy bedding and air-con (all for the princely sum of $15 per night) and spend my time walking in the backstreets, eating tofu and egg Pad Thai day after day from a tiny spot with a few tables where you point to the picture on the menu and an old woman proceeds to make it in front of you.
Not surprisingly, it’s fantastic. After eating there a few times, I decide to be adventurous and try a dedicated vegetarian restaurant, in the Old City.
The plate is presented beautifully and it’s not expensive but the truth is I actually prefer the ‘hole in the wall’ joint.
I feel no need to engage in tourist activities, such as visiting an (ethical?) Elephant Sanctuary or partake in a cookery class. I check myself into a great little place which is family-run, with comfy bedding and air-con (all for the princely sum of $15 per night) and spend my time walking in the backstreets, eating tofu and egg Pad Thai day after day from a tiny spot with a few tables where you point to the picture on the menu and an old woman proceeds to make it in front of you.
Not surprisingly, it’s fantastic. After eating there a few times, I decide to be adventurous and try a dedicated vegetarian restaurant, in the Old City. The plate is presented beautifully and it’s not expensive but the truth is I actually prefer the ‘hole in the wall’ joint.
I treat myself to two fabulous Thai massages, and the woman who deals with me, whilst not speaking a word of English, has magical hands and manages to unknot parts of my shoulders and back that I’d given up on. I rest each afternoon, since it’s simply too hot to venture out, either napping, listening to podcasts or reading crime fiction (one of my great passions).
Each evening, after the sun has set, I stroll around night markets - after all, only after about 6-7pm does everything come to life in Thailand. There are so many beautiful things for sale - dresses, shoes, bags, jewelry - and I have to stop myself from impulse purchasing - I’ve a long way to go on this trip yet and I’m carrying everything on my back. I splash out on two pairs of light trousers, which are the most practical thing for daily wear and tear on the road and sigh with delight as I look at the paper lanterns that glow so beautifully.
And then, when I feel hungry, I pick up spring rolls and plates of fried noodles with vegetables from the vendors, washing them down with fruit shakes or some coconut water.
I have no desire to socialise; I walk alone through the streets (feeling entirely safe) and return to my accommodation, lost in thought, amazed at how far removed from Israel, the country that’s been my home for so long.
It’s not just the food, the rest, the massages, the marijuana…it’s the feeling of weightlessness that I enjoy so much. I am travelling solo, feeling light and unencumbered, and whilst I’ve bought my work (and am submitting articles for clients, periodically) I feel I have little obligations.
I have no fixed plans, just a vague idea of where I’m heading (across to Laos and then onto Vietnam) but even that isn’t set in stone. .
I have no clear idea of how long I will stay in any one place, nor when I will return to Israel or Europe. The only obligations I have are to myself.
As a friend remarked, I am as free as a bird.